Help Me Help You: How to Take the Best Pet Photo for a Portrait
- Emma Keys
- Jun 22
- 3 min read
You’ve decided to commission a portrait of your pet — amazing! Whether it’s a surprise gift, a tribute, or just because you love them to bits (same), the process all starts with one thing: the photo.
I get it — they’re always moving, always blinking, and somehow never quite as majestic in photos as they are in real life. But don’t worry. I’m here to walk you through how to take the best possible photo for your commission so I can do your furry friend justice on the page.
And who better to help demonstrate than Ralph — my very own English Bulldog and unwilling model. He’s here to show you the do’s, the don’ts, and the “why is your tongue doing that?” moments. Bless him.
We've all done it: tried to photograph our dog only to end up with a blurry snout mid-sneeze. But when it comes to getting your pet painted, the right photo can make all the difference.
Why Reference Photos Matter.
I don't trace or guess - I observe. A good reference photo lets me see the details that bring your pet's personality to life: the subtle shading around the eyes, the tufts of fur that always stick out, the warm glow in their gaze. That's the difference between "a nice dog painting" and "oh my gosh, that's HIM".
What Makes a Good Photo?
1. Eyes Are Everything
When I’m painting a portrait, the eyes are what bring it to life. So, how do you check if your photo is good enough? Zoom in. Can you clearly see the iris, pupil, and even a little bit of the white? If yes — that’s a great sign.
Ralph’s Tip: If your dog looks like a blurry potato with mystery orbs for eyes… maybe try again.
2. Angle Matters (A Lot)
The photo you send sets the composition for the whole painting. So if you want a side-on view, I need a photo taken side-on — not from above .
Get down to eye level - The angle of the photo = The angle of the portrait
Think of it this way: if the photo looks weird or unflattering to you, I promise it’ll be weird on paper too. Ralph poses regularly showing teeth with his lip stuck. Charming. Not helpful.
3. Natural Light Wins
Artificial lighting (especially at night) adds orange tones and messes with the colour of your pet’s fur. For the most accurate colouring, stand near a window or go outside on a bright but not harsh light day.
Overcast is perfect — no squinting, no weird shadows.
Ralph’s Reality: This lighting makes him look to orange, not to mention the tongue mid nose pick...
4. One Photo Isn’t Enough
Even if you have one great photo for the main pose, please send a few more! I use extra references to understand fur texture, colour patterns, and shape. The more context, the better the result.
You don’t need to be a photographer — just send a batch and I’ll pick the best.
Bonus Tip: Send them unfiltered! I need to see real colours and shadows, not Valencia or Lo-Fi.
Common Mistakes (No Judgement)
The Potato Cam: blurry, low-res, or a screenshot from a whatsapp message
Weird Angles: taken from above or while your pet is practicing his downward dog
One single photo: even if its decent, it limits me - I need to see shape , colouring, and fur texture from a few angles
Costume chaos: unless you want them painted in the outfit, its best if they are au-naturel!
If you are not sure, just ask! I'll always be happy to take a quick look and let you know which images will give the best results. We're a team - you bring the photos, I'll bring the paint brush.
Coming Next: What Happens After You Send the Photos?
I’ll be putting together another blog soon, explaining what happens once your photos land in my inbox — from layout sketch to finished portrait.
Until then, take a deep breath, grab your treats and camera, and try to channel your inner David Bailey.
With love (and bulldog drool),
Emma and Ralph x
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